Shirt Construction
The importance of a crisp, well-fitting shirt is often overlooked, with a clear focus on the jacket or suit. However, how well your shirt fits is critical to how well your overall outfit looks. With this in mind, we have compiled a comprehensive guide to shirts.
Starting with the Fabric
In the 1950s, ready-to-wear suits became widespread, with manufacturers standardizing cuts to fit the average man. Today, most suits are off-the-rack.
Fused jackets, commonly found in stores, use a synthetic adhesive applied under heat to bond the lining to the fabric. This makes them more affordable and immediately available without fittings. However, fused construction sacrifices flexibility—over time, glued lapels may lift, and the jacket can feel stiff and less adaptable.
Attention To Detail
In addition to the fabric used, the attention to detail impacts the price. Such hand-sewn buttonholes are not only more beautiful to look at but are more functional and elastic when compared to machine-made buttonholes.
Various types of seam tabs are used for extra strength and beauty.
Split Yoke for extra Mobility and Strength.
Signature Monograms on Collar or Cuffs.
Sewn vs. Fused Collars: Which One is Right for You?
A collar consists of two pieces—top and bottom—held together by sturdy interlining for shape and strength. This can be fused or hand-sewn.
A sewn collar, crafted by hand, is more durable as its stitching flexes with movement. While some claim it’s softer, softness depends on interlining weight, allowing customers to choose between a stiff or unstructured feel based on their needs—crisp for business or relaxed for casual wear.
Hand-sewn collars cost more but offer superior durability, comfort, and customization. When ironing, always press from tip to center to prevent bunching.
Choosing the Right Shirt Cuffs
Cuff style is a personal choice, with classic shapes remaining unchanged for over a century. Rounded single cuffs offer a more casual, Ivy League-inspired look, pairing well with button-down collars, jeans, and loafers. Cutaway or rounded finishes are purely stylistic preferences.
For formalwear, cufflinks are the traditional choice, usually worn with French (double) cuffs. However, we prefer single cuffs with buttonholes on both sides, allowing cufflinks without the bulk of a double cuff.
A well-chosen bespoke shirt enhances the elegance of a tailored suit, adding a touch of luxury and refinement.
